Michael "Much" Mayr.
The Emperor's New Clothes, 8b+.
Fleischbank, Wilder Kaiser, 2007.
Nose. Ground – up...
just climb and through the wall...
no fixed rope...
no checking it out...
a long way down to the redpoint...
Solo onsight. Cassin, 450 m, 6c+
(Westliche Zinne).
Alpine Climbing. The Emperor's
New Clothes, 2007.
Michael "Much" Mayr
Date and place of birth: 1.4.1975, Hall in Tirol
Residence: Innsbruck
I've been climbing for about 20 years.
My highlights: Every time when I climb up something that I had hardly given myself a chance of doing...last year it was the on sight of the Leaning Tower West Face, free climbing of the Salathe and my first ascent of The Dark Side on the Chinese Wall.
Sponsored by SKYLOTEC—how did it happen?
Günter Almberger, the product manager from SKYLOTEC, called me last year and told me about the idea “SKYLOTEC goes mountain”. At the time, I had never heard of SKYLOTEC and was a little skeptical at the beginning. That changed in a flash after I accepted the inviation to Munich and Florian Wahl and Günther introduced me to the company's concept together.
What does that mean to you?
I am thankful for the professional and friendly cooperation. I had had other sponsors before that had long been established in mountaineering and of course also have good products, but this form of appreciation, communication and support was, or used to be, new to me. By the way, I was surprised by the quality and innovation of several products and that's already in the first year! There's a lot to look forward to ....
How did you start climbing? What's the most fun thing about climbing for you?
Well, when I was six, I had my first “climbing experience”. I disappeared during a walk in the woods with my parents and climbed up a steep, rocky slope. As I did it, I felt danger and the feeling of being exposed for the first time, and along with them, an excitement I hadn't known before. That remained my secret, and from then on I knew that rocks and even mountains must be full of adventures, and I could hardly wait to finally be old enough to experience them. Climbing is so multifaceted and almost every way to do it is fun to me: sport climbing, Alpine climbing, bouldering, and ice climbing from time to time... And you can't forget the positive side effects: that you get to know different people and countries, that cliffs—above all, high faces—are often to be found in gorgeous, unspoiled natural landscapes...
What is your biggest/highest goal in mountaineering?
To climb the next 20 years at least as much as in the last, and to still have the feeling of just having discovered a huge passion.
What has been your biggest/highest success up to now?
It's hard for me to name a “big success”. Looking back, experiences are successes when they expand your own climbing horizon, open a new dimension, and encourage you to want to do more of it. Additionally, it depends on how high the expectation and commitment is compared to the difficulty of the goal. The lower the expectation and the higher or more difficult the goal, the larger the subjective success. My first big wall 10 years ago has a special significance. Up to that point, I had hardly ever positioned a Friend (cam), had no idea of “big walling”, and convinced a friend to climb ground up to this 1000m high, unclimbable looking face: El Nino on El Capitan. The nights in the portaledge, all the exciting moments spread over several days, the thoughts and doubts, are intensive, unforgettable memories.
Danger/fear—important feelings in climbing. How do you personally handle them?
Danger is not a feeling, but a real and tangible threat, that according to the definition is an essential part of every adventure. With “normal” mountaineering, with the exception of mistakes securing someone, I hardly see a real danger and so I'm not afraid. That's not the case with Alpine or solo climbing. When you don't accept any risk, any danger, then there's just no adventure. But if you do, then a certain amount of fear occurs as a natural reaction. Being able to control this fear and to do the best possible thing to lower risk in an objectively dangerous situation is a very valuable experience. For me personally, without this adventure aspect, a lot of the fascination that climbing continues to have for me would be lost.
Freedom—what does that mean for you in connection with climbing?
Climbing is still a synonym for freedom for me. It's up to each person in which kind of climbing and in which style they find their fulfillment—without strict rules. Climbing allows me quite a bit of freedom; for example, that today I escaped a regulated 40-hour work week....
Who is or are your role model(s) in professional mountaineering?
I'm already too old for that. Despite that, it's fascinating and inspiring to watch people from the Innsbruck climbing scene like Kilian Fischhuber, David Lama, or Jorg Verhoeven. All three can live well from climbing and have kept a certain relaxed attitude and openness.
What are your favourite climbing areas?
Yosemite, Zillertal, Osp, Dolomiten...
Which tips and tricks do you have for newbies to climbing sport?
... of course, buy only SKYLOTEC products
Climbing, climbing, and more climbing. What else do you do in your free time?
Skiing, Nordic skiing, sauna, go to the cinema, go out...
